The synthetic diamond at 800 € per carat, is it over?

Posted in ExpertisesJewelleryArt market

We had announced €800 per carat in 2019, it is necessary to count at least €1,000 in 2020.

A new market

For the last 2 years, the manufacture of "CVD diamond" or "Chemical Vapor Deposition" has exploded all over the world. It is a new process entirely carried out in laboratory. This method is rapidly becoming established on the world jewellery market thanks to its price and "green" marketing.

The technique was first introduced in the 1950s to meet the demands of the industrial and high-tech sectors. Thanks to its physical properties, mainly hardness, i.e. the highest degree reached on the so-called Mosch scale, synthetic diamond reduced to powder is useful for drilling, sawing and various fields ... according to Diamond Spot.

The objective is to reproduce colourless but also coloured diamonds in the laboratory. They have the same properties as those formed in natural deposits. Consequently, man-made stones become very lucrative for mining companies. To the naked eye, there is no distinction between synthetic and natural diamonds. So much so that the industry has been able to sell them on the market before the discovery of CVD detection techniques about 4 years ago.

It is important to know that other production techniques or purity improvement techniques exist. Just as coloured diamonds are extremely rare to find, they are becoming an issue for their mass production.

Several companies share the world market

Firstly, in June 2018, Futura Sciences magazine headlined "DE BEERS giant, shakes up the jewellery market". Marketed by Lightbox Jewelry, a company based in the United States, synthetic diamonds are sold at €800 per carat in 2019. The manufacturing techniques and prices can be found on their website.

Then, in 2015, the Russian company New Diamond Technology announced to have succeeded in producing a synthetic diamond of 5.11 carats, had announced Marie Chabrol, in her blog the gemmologist.

As a result, several mining companies are moving into synthetic diamond manufacturing. They are testing various processes at the same time to obtain larger diamonds with perfect purity. They also sell with certificates that include the 4 C's or classification criteria (Clarity, Color, Cut, Carat) as for natural diamonds.

Consequences for the buyer

I-Diamands specifies the terminology allowed by the ISO 18323 Standard: "synthetic diamond", "laboratory-grown diamond" and "laboratory-created diamond". And its definition is clear: synthetic diamonds are "an artificial product that has the same chemical composition, crystal structure and physical properties as diamond".

In France, the 2002 decree on the trade in gemstones clarifies the terminology to be used.

First, the use of the term "diamond" alone implies that it is natural. Secondly, the law requires the seller to indicate whether the gems are "reconstructed, composite, synthetic, artificial or imitation".

MATY, the example of the clarified sale

Maty offers its customers the choice in all transparency: the natural and "synthetic" diamond with a distinctive green logo boasting "innovation, inspired by nature".

  • For example: the white gold ring mounted with a 0.50 carat synthetic stone is sold for 1,690 € in 2019. In other words, the white gold ring set with a 0.50 carat natural diamond is offered for €2,394 after a 40% discount on the initial price of €3,990. But on 15 May 2020, there is a slight change. Synthetic solitaire diamonds are offered on entry-level models. Then, they are used on new, more modern, stylized rings.
  • On Ebay, a seller displays a 0.50 carat diamond with a certificate of laboratory analysis of the CVD process for 600 €.

A new clientele: "the Millenials".

Indeed, only the person who wears it could know the origin of his diamond and for the new generation what does it matter?

Communication revolves around a certain "green" or "clean" manufacturing. In addition to an affordable price, the industry plans to increase production of synthetic diamonds to 3 to 4 million carats, compared to 150 million carats for natural diamonds, according to the FOCUS of 14/02/2019.


The lack of transparency between natural and synthetic diamonds can be found on the second-hand market.

Who will be able to tell the difference? In theory, synthetic diamonds carry the signature of the manufacturer for diamonds over 2 carats! In practice, the market has already seen synthetic diamonds replace synthetics. "Synthetic diamonds make the traditional industry tremble" is the title of the article by Dominique CHAPUIS in Les Echos of April 2018.

The Diamond Coast is reserved for professionals who undertake not to disseminate it to the general public. Since the Covid crisis, the market for precious metals and natural diamonds is on the rise again. Exceptional diamonds are once again becoming an attractive financial investment.

Consult Experts and independent gemology laboratories to find out the value of your jewellery!

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